Overview

San Sebastián de La Gomera is the island capital and principal town of La Gomera, a small but historically significant port town where Christopher Columbus made his final landfall in the Old World before crossing the Atlantic on his first voyage to the Americas in 1492. The town takes this connection seriously: three buildings associated with Columbus's stopover — the Torre del Conde fortress, the well from which he took on fresh water, and the church where he prayed before his departure — are carefully preserved and identified. Beyond the Columbus heritage, San Sebastián is a pleasant, compact town with a laid-back Canarian character: a cheerful waterfront, a small beach, some good restaurants, and enough cultural life to sustain a few days of exploration. It serves as the ferry hub for connections to Tenerife and La Palma, and as the practical base from which to explore the rest of La Gomera.

Beaches & nature

The town beach, Playa de San Sebastián, is a pleasant stretch of dark volcanic sand beside the harbour, with calm and sheltered water well-suited to swimming. It is not a large beach and fills up quickly on weekends, but it provides a convenient swim for visitors staying in the capital. The coastal path north of town leads along dramatic volcanic cliffs with spectacular views across to Tenerife — on clear days the silhouette of Mount Teide is visible rising above the clouds. The mountains behind San Sebastián rise abruptly from the coast and provide immediate access to the extraordinary Garajonay National Park, whose ancient laurel forest begins just a few kilometres inland. The offshore waters are rich in marine life — whales, dolphins, and sea turtles are regularly spotted.

Things to do

The Torre del Conde (Tower of the Count), a 15th-century fortified tower at the edge of the seafront, is the oldest surviving structure on the island and one of the best-preserved medieval buildings in the Canary Islands; it houses a small historical museum. The Columbus Well (Pozo de Colón) and the church of the Asunción are both identified and easily visited on a short walking tour of the town centre. The island's ferry service makes San Sebastián the practical hub for all inter-island transport; a day trip to Los Cristianos on Tenerife and back is easily managed. The town's weekly market provides local produce, crafts, and a sociable atmosphere. From San Sebastián, the road into the island's interior climbs through extraordinary scenery to the Garajonay plateau, where the national park visitor centre provides orientation for hikers.

Eating & nightlife

The waterfront area and the streets of the old town offer a good range of restaurants. Fresh fish is the obvious first choice — vieja, sama, and the local lapas (limpets) grilled with garlic butter are all outstanding. The island's gastronomy centres on its unique products: almogrote (pungent spiced cheese paste, unique to La Gomera), palm honey (made from the sap of the Canarian date palm), and fresh goat's cheese combine into flavours that are entirely specific to this island. The restaurant scene in the capital is the most varied on the island, with enough choice for a week's worth of varied dining. Nightlife is modest — a handful of bars on the waterfront, a couple of livelier spots near the harbour at weekends — but genuine enough for a small Canarian capital.

Getting around

San Sebastián is connected to Tenerife (Los Cristianos) by regular Fred Olsen and Binter Canarias ferry services — a journey of around 50 minutes by fast ferry. The town's bus terminal provides services to all main villages on the island, including Valle Gran Rey, Playa de Santiago, and Hermigua. Car hire is available in the town and strongly recommended for exploring the island freely. La Gomera's roads are narrow and winding; the landscapes they pass through are extraordinary.

When to go

San Sebastián sits on the eastern coast of La Gomera, which is generally drier and sunnier than the north and west. It is an agreeable town year-round. Winter is mild and cultural life — the Columbus anniversary events, the Carnival — is at its most active. Summer is warm and the beach is most inviting. Spring and autumn offer the most comfortable temperatures for hiking into the Garajonay forest. The Fiesta de San Sebastián (20 January) is one of the island's main local celebrations.